/ARTS WEEKLY/MUSIC-MEXICO:
Organ Grinders Proud of Century-Old Trade
Adrián Reyes
Alfonso, a 35-year-old organ grinder,
is dressed like the revolutionaries who fought in Mexico a century
ago.
MEXICO CITY, Aug 13 (IPS) -
He says his right arm has basically become an extension of the
heavy old hurdy-gurdy he lugs around all day seeking tips.
As he cranks his "organillo" or barrel organ, built in 1910 in
Germany, it plays old melodies out of tune because its best years passed
long ago, and the parts are no longer available to repair it.
According to the independent Union of Organ Grinders, there are
more than 100 barrel organs still in use in Mexico today, half of them
in the capital. They provide a living for around 200 people, most of
whom rent them.
In Mexico, the origins of the organ grinder's occupation dates
back to the 19th century, during the dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz
(1870-1910), when the local gentry were at the peak of their splendour.
"Anyone can play a barrel organ, but not everyone can carry one,"
says Alfonso with pride. The ornate wooden boxes weigh between 40 to 50
kgs.
Over the weekend, Alfonso, carrying his barrel organ on a strap
around his neck, wanders around the streets of the colonial
neighbourhood of Coyoacán on the south side of Mexico City. While he
cranks out the tunes, his wife Alicia passes the cap among the tourists.
Alfonso and Alicia sometimes make more than 20 dollars a day, but
it costs 15 dollars a day to rent the organillo. Nevertheless, they told
IPS they could get by on what they earn, like relatives and friends who
make a living with the barrel organ.
Only 10 organ grinders in Mexico own their instruments, while the
rest rent. And although the majority have been involved in the trade for
years, some merely try it out for a few weeks, often damaging parts of
the organillos because of their inexperience, which leads to a
distortion of the sound after the parts are replaced.
Alicia and Alfonso said things get hard whenever the antique
instrument begins to falter, especially because original replacement
parts are nearly impossible to find.
Whenever the organillo breaks down, the couple has to find another
source of income until it is repaired.
The Organ Grinders Union says the spare parts available in Mexico
are manufactured in Germany, Italy and France.
The barrel organs are carved wooden boxes made of oak, cedar or
mahogany, some of which are still decked out with red velvet adornments.
Others have been decorated with small mirrors in the front.
The instruments play popular Mexican songs like "Las Golondrinas",
"Gabino Barrera" or "Las Mañanitas", a traditional favourite at birthday
parties.
The Organ Grinders Union has a few basic rules. The main one is
that the "organilleros" must always wear a beige uniform with a hat,
similar to the clothing worn by the "Dorados de Villa", the rebel group
led by Francisco "Pancho" Villa in the Mexican Revolution that broke out
in 1910.
The old-fashioned organ grinders can be heard in public squares,
"cantinas" or bars, and at parties, keeping the tradition alive in
several parts of Mexico.
Since few people actually drop a coin in their caps or cans, the
organilleros spend hours winding their way through the streets and
stopping on street corners or at the entryways to supermarkets,
department stores or restaurants.
Alfonso said the century-old tradition could be condemned to
disappear,although it forms part of Mexican folklore.
Although organ grinders face no legal impediments for plying their
trade in public spaces, and they are recognised as workers by local
authorities, they have no access to benefits like social security or a
pension, he pointed out.
"Although we organ grinders usually go unnoticed, some people stop
for a moment to listen to the music, especially in places like Coyoacán,
where people are taking a break from their daily routines. People here
appreciate us a little, and that helps our effort to keep this trade from
disappearing," said Alfonso.
(END/2005)
