RANONG, Thailand and Ruili, China — It is 3 a.m. and 32-year-old Nilar is already awake, preparing to go to the market to buy ingredients for her soup business. Her movements are alert, but her neighbours in this town near the border with Burma are still fast asleep.

Far away, Htun Shwe, 58, prays at home before he goes to the morning market in Ruili, a Chinese town on the border with Burma, to buy ingredients for his Burmese-style curry restaurant.

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