By IPS Correspondents
DUBAI, Jun 10 2003 (IPS)

The ‘dishdasha’ – a distinctive, floor-length white robe – is an enduring symbol of Arab identity, and its use today is a tribute to its simplicity, comfort and suitability to the harsh desert climes.

This traditional national dress, also known as a ‘kandoura’, and the pristine headdress called the ‘gutra’ is worn proudly by Arab men and enjoys continuing popularity in spite of the increasing adaptation of Western trends in the region.

”Any nation or society has its own traditions and culture. What is important, however, is whether they stand the test of time and change. The very fact we still prefer to wear the ‘dishdasha’ highlights the pride that we take in our identity,” remarks Abed Al Najjar, a university student from Sharjah, one of seven emirates in the United Arab Emirates.

”One cannot ignore the fact that it is ideally suited to the hot desert climate, because it reflects the heat and allows air to circulate around the body,” he added.

Abed is out for his usual evening caper with his friends, but even then prefers to wear his spotless white ‘dishdashas’. ”It suits both casual and formal occasions, and I find myself totally at ease in them. And it does make one stand out in a crowd,” he adds, lounging in the food court of a local mall.

A look around and one realises what Abed means. While the jeans-clad crowd seems to blend into one colourful blur, the immaculate ‘dishdasha’-clad men stand out as icons of tradition – and sophistication. It is not just the men – boys of all ages, including tots, wearing these white robes too.

A statement in male elegance in the region, the style of the ‘dishdasha’ varies from country to country. One can recognise the origin of an Arab by the style of his robe, the colour of his headdress and the manner in which it is tied.

Men in the UAE traditionally wear an ankle-length, cool, loose-fitting garment made from cotton, although today it is combined with synthetics and tailored in various shades of white, off-white, and sometimes in dark colours. Most often, a long twisted piece of the same material dangles at arm’s length from the neck with a long tassel at the end of it.

On their heads, UAE men wear the ‘gutra’ – a square piece of cloth shaped as a triangle. To secure the ‘gutra’, the ‘agal’, which is a black thick circular band made from nylon or twisted wool, is used around the crown, and sometimes comes with a string that flows down the back and is called the ‘tarboosh’ – a favourite with youngsters.

Saudis prefer red-and-white-checked ‘gutra’ while men in the UAE mostly wear theirs spotlessly white.

The main adornment in an Omani ‘dishdasha’ is a tassel (‘furakha’) sewn into the neckline, which can carry perfume. The Omani headdress is usually tied around the head without an ‘agal’ in a casual manner.

Kuwaiti ‘dishdashas’ differ from the rest because they have a neat mandarin collar and the headdress is usually in red and white checks worn in a manner that covers a large part of the face.

Palestinians prefer black and white checks for their headdress and throw the flaps casually back over their heads, while Iranis and Baluchis tie the ‘gutra’ – or ‘keffiyeh’ as it is also called – tightly around their heads like a turban.

”The colour and the fabric selection varies with the seasons, the current fashion trend and one’s taste. During the hot summer months, white or an occasional ecru cotton blend fabric is used. As the temperature drops, a wide variety of colours appear, mostly greys, dark blues, tans and browns in soft wool blends,” says Mahmoud Al Rabel, director of a Dubai-based construction firm.

”Other than that, many variations were originally evidence of regional differences, but more recently may indicate only differences in the tastes of the individuals,” he adds.

During formal and especially ceremonial occasions, a ‘bisht’, which is a sleeveless flowing black or beige cloak trimmed with gold and whose material depends on the social status of the wearer, is sometimes worn on top of the ‘dishdasha’.

The thicker kinds are made from wool or cotton, while the lighter ones are made from a light kind of see-through linen. The ‘bisht’ comes in black and in shades of brown or beige.

Mahmoud muses: ”It is true that Western ideas and values are slowly finding their place in our society. More exposure and greater education prospects have also opened up many a narrow mind.”

”But our preferring to wear the ‘dishdasha’ is not our way of showing our displeasure at these trends. We welcome change but at the same time we want to make sure that our traditions and values are upheldàand when that comes together with style and comfort, who would want to wear anything else?” Mahmoud concludes.

Excerpt: