Plastic pollution from Amadi River by Iwai-Dialax. Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International

By Michael Stanley-Jones
RICHMOND HILL, Ontario, Canada, Jul 28 2025 (IPS)

The UN80 Initiative, unveiled in March by Secretary-General António Guterres, is a system-wide effort to reaffirm the UN’s relevance for a rapidly changing world.

The Initiative comes at a time of brutal budget cuts across the UN system. The United Nations High Commission for Refugees is cutting 3,500 jobs and making reductions in senior positions and offices to manage budget shortfalls. The World Health Organisation is expected to cut 20-25% of its global staff. Cuts at The World Food Programme range up to 30%.

And yet the needs served by the United Nations remain stark. The UN appealed for US$29 billion funding for the Global Humanitarian Overview 2025 to assist nearly 180 million vulnerable people, including refugees, in December 2024. Near the midpoint of the year, just $5.6 billion – less than 13 per cent – had been received.

Facing this harsh fiscal environment, the Secretary-General established seven thematic clusters under the UN80 Initiative covering peace and security, humanitarian action, development (Secretariat and UN system), human rights, training and research, and specialised agencies to improve coordination, reduce fragmentation, and realign functions where needed.

The UN80 Task Force is scheduled to release its recommendations at the end of July.

In their timely opinon piece, “UN Reform: Is it Time to Renew the Idea of Clustering the Major Environmental Agreements?”, Felix Dodds and Chris Spence advocate for “clustering key conventions and bringing scientific bodies to strengthen international environmental governance, while also offering potential cost savings.”

“Currently, there are hundreds of different multilateral environmental agreements (MEAs) in force but perhaps only 20-30 core global MEAs with broad international participation,” Dodds and Spence write.

Bringing the fragmented set of environmental conventions together in clusters to address the interconnected issues they address could strengthen their work, reduce inefficiencies, and fill significant gaps in how the UN approaches the triple plenary crises of biodiversity loss, climate change and pollution.

There is one experience which suggests how such a clustering of MEAs secretariats could be accomplished. In 2009, on an ad interim basis, the Joint Convention Services of the Basel, Rotterdam and Stockholm Conventions was set up, preparatory to a decision by an extraordinary conferences of the parties of the three chemicals and wastes conventions to establish a joint Secretariat in February 2010.

I was hired as the first staff member assigned to serve the three conventions equally in December 2009, holding the position of Public Information Officer in the Rotterdam Convention Secretariat while acting on behalf of the Basel, Rotterdam and Stockholm conventions until August 2014. This gave me a ring-side view of the process of “synergies” between the three clustered conventions.

The experience of the Basel, Rotterdam and Stockholm conventions with clustering their instruments provides a proof of concept of the benefits that may be gained by other closely related MEAs joining forces. The conventions addressing biological diversity and climate change may be ripe for applying the lessons learned from the three global chemicals and waste conventions.

The “synergies process” streamlined the three conventions’ implementation, reduced administrative burdens, and maximized the efficient use of resources.

Future conferences of the Parties (COPs) of the Basel, Rotterdam and Stockholm conventions are now held back-to-back on a biennial schedule. For the more than 180 governments which attend the ‘SuperCOPs’, the efficiencies gained in time, travel and expense are obvious. The joint nature of the conferences also allows for a greater exchange of information and views between the parties to the conventions, helping close gaps in implementation and increasing at the technical and scientific level understanding of how the actions of any one MEA impact the others.

The listing of a chemical in the Stockholm Convention’s annexes may trigger classification of products containing the substance as hazardous under the Basel Convention. Hazardous constituents that may be found in plastic waste due to their use as additives in various applications include halogenated organic compounds used as flame retardants. Several halogenated organic compounds used as flame retardants are listed under the Stockholm Convention’s Annex A to be eliminated or severely restricted. The adoption of amendments to the Basel Convention in 2019) sought to enhance the control of the transboundary movements of plastic waste and clarify the scope of the Convention as it applies to such waste.

Close coordination between the two instruments is therefore welcome.

Another important lesson concerns how the groundwork was successfully laid for the establishment of a joint ‘BRS’ Secretariat. The process needs to be owned and embraced by the Parties to the Conventions themselves. As legally independent entities, they must be the drivers of any envisioned reform.

A series of decisions taken by the parties to the conventions in 2008 and 2009 established an ad hoc joint working group on enhancing cooperation and coordination among the Basel, Rotterdam and Stockholm conventions. Under co-chairs nominated by the parties and drawn from the North and the South to steer the process, the ad hoc working group was mandated to prepare joint recommendations on enhancing cooperation and coordination among the three conventions at the administrative and programmatic levels. This ensured that the changes would have the political backing of the parties themselves.

A further lesson is that the leadership of the newly formed cluster of conventions’ secretariat needed to be placed in one team. In practice, this meant consolidating the executives of the three conventions (on the UNEP side, as Rotterdam has a joint secretariat shared by UNEP and FAO). Having multiple executives hindered the synergies process. Reducing three executive posts down to one brought coherence as well as additional cost savings. The streamlining of secretariat staff further contributed to creating a more efficient, less costly secretariat.

My assignment in the ‘BRS’ Secretariat covered media relations, public information and outreach, including helping manage the joint conventions’ synergies website. Public information provided a fertile ground for joint activity between the three legally independent conventions.

The benefits brought by such administrative measures are minor when placed alongside the larger structural reforms of the synergies process which serve the ultimate purpose of promoting exchange of information, environmentally sound management, and the restriction or elimination of a broad range of undesirable hazardous substances from the planet.

Ultimately, this may be the highest benefit the clustering of the thematically-related hazardous chemical and wastes instruments bring to global environmental governance.

Felix Dodds and Chris Spence (July 17, 2025). UN Reform: Is it Time to Renew the Idea of Clustering the Major Environmental Agreements? Inter Press Service.

United Nations (June 16, 2025). Brutal cuts mean brutal choices warns UN relief chief, launching ‘survival appeal’. UN News.

United Nations (June 23, 2025). UN80 Initiative: What it is – and why it matters to the world | UN News.

Michael Stanley-Jones is an Environmental Policy and Governance Fellow at the United Nations University Institute for Water, Environment and Health, in Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada.

IPS UN Bureau

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The blue trousers are hemp woven into denim, which is a warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Credit: Nimco Adam / qaaldesigns

By Michael Stanley-Jones and Claire Egehiza Obote
Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada / Trollhättan, Sweden, Jul 25 2025 (IPS)

Plastic pollution has emerged as one of the most pressing environmental challenges of our time. Since the mid-20th century, over 8 billion metric tons of plastic have been produced globally (UNEP, 2021). Shockingly, more than 90% of this plastic waste has not been recycled. Instead, it has been incinerated, buried in landfills, or leaked into the environment where it can persist for hundreds of years, fragmenting into microplastics.

Among the most insidious threats within this overwhelming tide of waste are microplastics: plastic particles smaller than 5 millimeters. These tiny fragments often originate from the breakdown of larger plastic items or are directly released through industrial processes, personal care products, and increasingly, from textiles. Though they represent a smaller portion of total plastic waste by weight, their impact is disproportionately severe and persistent

Michael Stanley-Jones

Each year, it is estimated that 9 to 14 million metric tons of plastic waste escape into aquatic ecosystems, including rivers, lakes, and oceans (Pew Charitable Trusts & SYSTEMIQ, 2020). Moreover, it is not just our oceans or bodies at risk; microplastics have been found in terrestrial soils, affecting agricultural productivity and soil health. They hinder the activities of key organisms like earthworms, which are vital for nutrient cycling. At every level, from soil to sea to self, microplastics are infiltrating our ecosystems.

The story does not end with pollution. Plastic’s contribution to climate change spans its entire life cycle from fossil fuel extraction and chemical manufacturing to transportation and disposal.

The Hidden Culprit: Synthetic Textiles

Amid this crisis, one significant contributor remains relatively overlooked: textiles. Textiles are estimated to account for 14 percent of global plastics production (Manshoven et al., 2022). Synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon and acrylic ubiquitous in fast fashion shed tiny plastic particles during production, daily use, and washing. These particles escape wastewater treatment systems and flow directly into natural water bodies.

Claire Egehiza Obote

But it was not always this way.

In 1960, 95% of textile fibres were natural and biodegradable. Today, demand for textiles has skyrocketed by over 650%, while the share of synthetic fibres has ballooned from 3% to 68% (Carus & Partanen, 2025). Fast fashion’s dependence on cheap, fossil-fuel-based synthetics has turned the textile industry into one of the planet’s most polluting sectors.

This intertwined crisis of microplastic pollution, climate change, biodiversity loss and food insecurity calls for a comprehensive rethinking of how we produce and consume textiles. A critical part of that solution lies in rebuilding the natural fibre markets we once relied on.

Reviving Natural and Renewable Fibres

Research scientists Michael Carus and Dr. Asta Partanen of the German nova-Institute have called for a significant increase in renewable fibre production.

Bast fibres from flax, hemp, jute, kenaf and ramie are promising but remain expensive due to complex processing needs. Investments in their scalability could help them rival synthetics.

Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) such as viscose, lyocell and modal are biodegradable and scalable but rely on virgin wood and chemical-intensive processes, posing threats to forests and ecosystems. Recycled MMCFs make up only 0.5% of the market, but they could grow significantly with the right incentives.

Bio-based polymers (or “biosynthetics”) offer alternatives to fossil-based synthetics, yet adoption is still low. Marine biopolymers from seaweed for textiles may provide yet another source of natural fibre.

In the Global South, informal textile economies provide livelihoods for millions and often operate outside formal regulation. In addition to technological innovations, traditional knowledge systems and indigenous fibre cultivation practices such as the use of sisal, coir, or abacá can offer scalable, low-impact alternatives.

What Can Be Done?

Governments, industries and consumers all have roles to play in turning the tide:

Policy Action: Governments could implement Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes that require manufacturers to cover the full lifecycle costs of textile waste. The European Union has recently taken steps towards this by introducing harmonised EPR rules for textiles and incentivising producers to design products that promote sustainable design.

Market Incentives: Public and private investment should prioritize R&D into preferred cotton and bast fibres to reduce costs and improve competitiveness with synthetics. Supporting transitions to natural fibres in the Global South through microgrants, capacity building, and market access can help reduce plastic leakage at scale while enhancing socio-economic resilience.

Regulatory Levers: Boosting the proportion of sustainably sourced MMCFs is critical. Regulators should further encourage the shift to certified forestry and recycled content. 60 to 65% of MMCFs are now FSC and/or PEFC-certified, an upward trend since at least 2020 that should further be encouraged (Carus & Partanen, 2025).

Innovation in Waste Processing: Converting post-harvest waste from bast fibres like kenaf, flax, hemp, jute, and sorghum into textile-grade yarn could be a game-changer for local economies and sustainability.

Corporate Transparency: Mandatory disclosures under frameworks like the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) and the International Sustainability Standard Board (ISSB) IFRS S1 and IFRS S2 can guide investors away from carbon-intensive fashion and toward more sustainable alternatives. Once risks from unsustainable production are baked into market valuations, investment flows into more sustainable production will inevitably follow.

Consumer Choices: Individuals can help shift demand by buying natural fibres, choosing durable apparel, and consuming less overall. Consumer pressure has historically influenced corporate behavior textile sustainability is no exception.

Community-led initiatives: Supporting community-led initiatives that revive local textile production not only reduces reliance on synthetics but also preserves cultural heritage and supports sustainable rural development. These models are often more circular and regenerative by design.

The Global Plastics Treaty: The ongoing negotiations for a global plastics agreement offer an opportunity to recognize and prioritize the shift toward biodegradable natural fibres as part of international plastic pollution solutions.

If governments, industries and consumers work in concert to rebuild natural fibre markets, the share of synthetics in clothing could decline to 50% from today’s 67%, according to nova-Institute’s analysis (Carus & Partanen, 2025).

Without such action, we risk a future defined by escalating microplastic contamination, irreversible biodiversity losses and a worsening climate crisis. The ongoing global plastics treaty negotiations also offer a timely opportunity to recognize natural fibre transitions as part of systemic plastic pollution solutions. But an alternative future, one that is more sustainable, biodiverse and resilient, is still within reach. We must act to reclaim natural fibres and reject a plastic-saturated future.

Michael Stanley-Jones, Environmental Policy and Governance Fellow United Nations University Institute for Water, Environment and Health

Claire Egehiza Obote, Graduate Student in Sustainable Development University West, Sweden

IPS UN Bureau

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The central role Indigenous Peoples and local communities in addressing climate change, biodiversity loss and desertification has gained widespread recognition over the past decade. Indigenous Peoples’ close dependence on resources and ecosystems, exceptional tradition, and ancestral knowledge are invaluable assets for the sustainable management of our planet’s natural resources.

Michael Stanley-Jones

The international community has highlighted prominently the importance of the role of Indigenous Peoples and local communities to achieving the goals of the ʻRio Conventions’ – United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification (UNCCD) and Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD).

In 2017, the Conference of the Parties to the UNFCCC emphasized the role of Indigenous Peoples and local communities in achieving the targets and goals set out in the Convention, the Paris Agreement and the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, while recognizing their vulnerability to climate change. COP23 established the Local Communities and Indigenous Peoples Platform to promote the exchange of traditional knowledge, knowledge of indigenous peoples and local knowledge systems, as well as to strengthen their representatives’ engagement in the UNFCCC process.

UNCCD followed in 2020, launching an Indigenous Peoples’ dialog on climate change, biodiversity and desertification. Canada, in coordination with 16 U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) Member States, launched in 2020 the Group of Friends of Indigenous Peoples in Rome, chaired by Ambassador Alexandra Bugailiskis, who currently serves as Chair of the UNU-INWEH International Advisory Committee. Working at the intersection of the Rio Conventions, UNU-INWEH especially addresses the theme of health and food security vis-a-vis Indigenous Peoples.

The adoption of the Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework by the CBD in December 2022 sought to ensure traditional knowledge, innovations, practices and technologies of indigenous peoples and local communities are available and accessible to guide biodiversity action.

Not all has been clear skies and smooth sailing, however.

UNFCCC’s Subsidiary Body for Scientific and Technological Advice reported in 2024 that there exists “a fundamental misalignment between the prevailing global approach to addressing climate change and the perspectives of Indigenous Peoples and local communities on the changing climate.”

The 476.6 million Indigenous Peoples, making up 6.2 per cent of the global population, represent “a rich diversity of cultures, traditions and ways of life based on a close relationship with nature” and should not be viewed as homogeneous groups.

Moreover, Indigenous Peoples and local communities are often perceived primarily as vulnerable, a focus which overshadows the rich knowledge systems, cultural values and practices of these communities. The report recommended shifting the narrative around Indigenous Peoples and local communities from vulnerability to nature stewardship and climate leadership.

The importance of emphasizing the positive contribution of Indigenous Peoples and local communities to achieving the goals of the Rio Conventions cannot be underestimated.

We should not lose sight of the ends which traditional, Indigenous and local knowledge and strengthened participation serve, namely, to foster stronger and more ambitious climate action by Indigenous Peoples that contributes to the ultimate achievement of the objectives of the Conventions.

Toward this end, in a landmark decision at CBD COP 16 in Cali, Colombia, in October-November 2024, Parties adopted a new Programme of Work on Article 8(j) and other provisions of the Convention related to indigenous peoples and local communities. This transformative programme sets out specific tasks to ensure the meaningful contribution of Indigenous Peoples towards achieving the conservation of biological diversity, the sustainable use of biological diversity, and the fair and equitable sharing of benefits.

The Climate Convention COP29 meeting in Baku, Azerbaijan, in November 2024 decided to extend the mandate of the Facilitative Working Group of the Local Communities and Indigenous Peoples Platform. It further invited Parties to provide simultaneous interpretation into languages other than the official languages of the United Nations at meetings of its Facilitative Working Group and mandated events under the Platform, a step which greatly opens up opportunities for the community to engage in climate, biodiversity and desertification action.

The UNCCD COP16 followed in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, in December 2024 by holding its first-ever Indigenous Peoples Forum, spotlighting the invaluable contributions of Indigenous Peoples to land conservation and sustainable resource management.

A more inclusive and participatory process engaging with Indigenous Peoples will serve to strengthen the Rio Conventions and enhance their chances of success. This is something worth championing in the challenging times the world is facing today.

Michael Stanley-Jones is an Environmental Policy and Governance Fellow at the United Nations University Institute for Water, Environment and Health (UNU-INWEH) and served in the UN Economic Commission for Europe and UN Environment Programme in Geneva and Nairobi from 2004 to 2022.

IPS UN Bureau

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