BURUNDI-POLITICS: NATION IN TROUBLE

By IPS Correspondents Reprint | | Print |

HORACE AWORI

BUJUMBURA, Dec 15 1994 (IPS) - FROM A PLANE, BURUNDI’S CAPITAL FITS PERFECTLY WELL WITHIN THE DESCRIPTION OF A MODERN CITY. IT LIES ON THE BEAUTIFUL MUHUMA MOUNTAINS, WITH LAKE TANGANYIKA FLOWING CALMLY BELOW ITS FOOTHILLS.

BEHIND THE SLEEPY HILLS ARE COUNTLESS TALES OF ATTROCITIES. IT IS AN OPEN SECRET HERE THAT THE MOUNTAINS ARE THE OPERATIONAL GROUNDS FOR EXTREME HUTU NATIONALISTS FIGHTING THE TUTSI- DOMINATED ARMY AS THE ETHNIC VIOLENCE SPREADS TO THE COUNTRYSIDE.

THE AIRPORT IS QUIET AND BEAUTIFUL, BUT FEW INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS EVER TAKE OFF FROM HERE. THERE IS A WEEKLY SABENA FLIGHT, PERHAPS PART OF BELGIUM’ S NOSTALGIA FOR ITS ERSTWHILE COLONIAL DOMINIONS OF BURUNDI AND RWANDA.

ON A NORMAL DAY, ONE OR TWO REGIONAL FLIGHTS FLY TO ENTEBBE, UGANDA OR TO NAIROBI, KENYA. AN AGEING BOEING 707 IS ON THE TARMAC — THE PRIDE OF BURUNDI — FOR THE OCCASSIONAL LONG HAUL, POSSIBLY WHEN THE PRESIDENT TRAVELS TO SUMMITS OR ON STATE VISITS.

THE AIRPORT BUILDING IS IMPRESSIVE IN ITS AFRICAN HUT MOTIF, BUT LOOKS OVERSIZED FOR THE RUNWAY, CERTAINLY FOR THE TRICKLE OF TRAFFIC.

IN TOWN, A BEAUTIFUL BOULEVARD IS DOTTED WITH SOLDIERS AT STRATEGIC POINTS, REFLECTING THE POLITICAL TURMOIL IN THE TROUBLED CENTRAL AFRICAN COUNTRY.

THE QUEUES OF LORRIES AND VANS OUTSIDE BREWERIES ATTEST TO THE THIRST OF THE NATION. UNFORTUNATELY, IT’S NOT A THIRST FOR PEACE AND STABILITY. THE BELGIAN RED CROSS OFFICES IN THE AREA WERE RECENTLY ROBBED AT GUNPOINT IN BROAD DAYLIGHT IN THE SLEEPY, APPARENTLY CALM BUJUMBURA.

NEAR THE CITY CENTRE, TAXIS HOBBLE OVER POTHOLES, AFRICA’S UBIQUITOUS TELL-TALE SIGN OF TROUBLED ECONOMIES AND MISMANAGED CITIES THAT GUZZLE UP TAXES AND OTHER RAVENUES WHILE SERVICES WITHER AWAY. ALL THIS TIME, THE TAXI DRIVER HAS FOUND OUT ALL HE NEEDS ABOUT YOU. WHO YOU ARE, WHERE YOU COME FROM, WHAT YOUR MISSION IS, WHAT CURRENCY YOU POSSESS AND WHAT HOTEL IS SUITABLE FOR YOU.

AT THE CITY MARKET, HE TELLS YOU THAT GRENADES HAVE EXPLODED HERE “TWICE IN THE PAST MONTH. THEY SAY FOUR PEOPLE WERE KILLED IN THE LAST ONE, BUT WE THINK MANY MORE DIED.” HE WOULD NOT DISCLOSE WHO THREW THE GRENADE. THEN A SLY FELLOW APPROACHES.